I'm downsizing my crafting... to 18" dolls

I'm downsizing my crafting... to 18" dolls

As the first month of the New Year came to a close, I have been busy planning what to do this year. I have looked back at my last year of crafting, and with a great sadness as I have to admit that I have not done as much as I wanted to (many projects still sit unfinished, craft room overflowing with craft supplies not even used yet, I bet it it all sounds familiar...) so decided that I needed to seriously downsize.

I love all manner of handmade crafts, but there simply isn't enough hours in a day to do everything I want to do ! And with 5 kids in tow, one of them being a very boisterous toddler boy, I don't have as much time to sit down and make stuff as I used to. So with a heavy heart, I decided to downsize my crafting... to dolls.

Last Christmas we discovered the joy of playing with 18" dolls, mainly due to Santa bringing one of my daughters a "Hair Play" doll from Smyths Toys UK by Our Generation / Battat . Now all my girls all wanted a doll, including me!

As much as I love Our Generation Dolls, they mostly look the same, with the same face mold but different eyes and hair colour, and I think they are mainly suitable for children rather than an adult collector. So as I researched what other 18" dolls are available, I discovered American Girl dolls. I fell in love with them there and then. There is SO much variety in American Girl dolls and I adore them all (well, quite a few).

So it's time to come clean: I am now officially an AG doll collector and proud of it :). The possibilities and crafting opportunities for my dolls are endless, so needless to say, I'll be even more busy. My girls all want to join in the crafting so that's great news for family crafting.  At the moment we are starting slowly, with some doll opening videos on our YouTube channel and some dress up fun. But I couldn't resist making a quick "Frozen-inspired" Swarovski necklace for my beautiful Caroline:

And of course, I couldn't resist a few knitting and crocheting projects, most of them inspired by Ravelry free knitting patterns for dolls, as modeled by my lovely Rebecca:

This year, I'm planning to concentrate more on smaller projects for my dolls, and few bits and pieces of home decor in Tilda fabric for the house. And more photography, featuring the dolls of course!
If I can achieve that, then my crafting year will be a success. Fingers crossed!

Adorable Knitted Sirdar Snuggly Teddy Bear

Adorable Knitted Sirdar Snuggly Teddy Bear

This toy is knitted based on a pattern "Bear in Sirdar Snuggly DK (1457)". The pattern is easy to follow even though it is all knitted in separate pieces, and than sewn together. It does take a while to sew, but the end result is worth it. This is my second toy in this Sirdar soft toys knitting patterns range, so the sewing was much easier this time, although I am yet to master sewing on the legs (but since this toy is supposed to be cuddled, not standing, it does not matter match).

Cute or What?

This Adorable Bear now joins her sister's Adorable Bunny

Finished knitting just in time for my youngest daughter's birthday today. Happy Birthday little M!

Nothing beats a handmade present

Knitted Girl Lacy Bellflowers Shrug Free Knitting Pattern

Knitted Girl Lacy Bellflowers Shrug Free Pattern

If you fancy expanding your knitting skills beyond baby makes, but not quite ready for a full grown up project, try your hand at this cute knitted girl lacy bellflowers shrug. Fits 9-10 yrs old and beyond.

Knitted Girl Lacy Bellflowers Shrug Back View

I am happy to share my pattern notes for this girl lacy bellflowers shrug knitting pattern for free, providing that you follow this copyright notice:

Copyright Notice
Feel free to share a link to this pattern by linking to my blog and giving copyright credit to © CraftsAdore, but do not copy the pattern and claim as your own. The pattern is as-is, and I cannot provide any individual support on it. This pattern may not be used to produce items for commercial purposes - you may knit from this pattern for own personal use only or for charity. Please feel free to share your finished project by adding your comment to this post. ❤ Happy Knitting! ❤

Terms:

K knit

P Purl
Sl1 Slip one stitch purlwise

M1:  Make 1 (a method of increasing which is almost invisible, done by inserting tip of left needle underneath the little "bar" of yarn which runs between the needles, from front to back, forming a new stitch on the left needle, and then knitting into the *back* of that new stitch)

K2tog:  Knit two stitches together

P2tog:  Purl two stitches together

YO:  Yarn over (bring yarn from back of work to front of work -- makes a hole if "knitting" all stitches)

KFB: Knit into the front and back of each stitch

CO 109st in long tail cast on using 3.75mm circular needles & DK yarn (I used baby soft colour changing yarn).

Allow 11st either side for ribbing = 22st

5 columns of bellflower repeat = 17 * 5 + 2= 87

Bottom Ribbing:

Row 1 WS:             Sl1 purlwise, Knit (this will be the wrong side of your work) all st

Row 2 RS:              Sl1 purlwise, Knit into the front and back (KFB) of each stitch till last st, K1

Row 3 WS:             Sl1 purlwise, * (K2tog, P2tog) rep from * till last st, K1

Row 4 RS:              Sl1 purlwise, Knit into the front and back (KFB) of each stitch till last st, K1

Row 5 WS:             Sl1 purlwise, * (K2tog, P2tog) rep from * till last st, K1

Row 6 RS:              Sl1 purlwise, Knit into the front and back (KFB) of each stitch till last st, K1

Row 7 WS:             Sl1 purlwise, (K2tog, P2tog) x6, K2tog, *p2tog, k2tog; rep from * till last st, K1

Main Body:

Switch to 4.5mm needles

Multiple of 17 st over 16 rows (first one is 19 st), 5 pattern repeats across - use Stitch markers between the patterns & rims.

Do NOT count the st after second row as it changes.

Repeat this 16 rows pattern 5.5 times till 12-13 inch high

Beginning & End Rim:

1              RS           Rim 1:     Sl1 purlwise, (KFB) x6                         Rim 2:     (KFB) x6, K1

2              WS          Rim 1:     Sl1 purlwise, (K2tog, P2tog) x6             Rim 2:     (P2tog, K2tog) x6, K1

Repeat 2 rows over 16 rows of bellflower pattern:

Row 1:     1,3,5,7,9,11,13

Row 2:     2,4,6,8,10,12,14

Bellflower Lace Pattern:

1              RS            p2* yon, k2-tog, yo, (k2-tog) x 3, k2, yo, k3, yo, ssk, yfrn, p2 *             

2              WS               *Knit the knit stitches; purl the purl stitches; purl the yarn over loops*

3              RS            p2*yo, k2-tog, k3-tog x2, yo, k1, yo, k2, (ssk, yo) x2, p2   *

4              WS               *Knit the knit stitches; purl the purl stitches; purl the yarn over loops*

5              RS            p2*yo, (sl 1, k3-tog, psso), yo, k3, yo, k2, (ssk, yo) x2, p2 *             

6              WS               *Knit the knit stitches; purl the purl stitches; purl the yarn over loops*

7              RS            p2*yo, k2-tog, yo, k1, yo, k2, ssk, yo, k2, (ssk, yo) x2, p2 *             

8              WS               *Knit the knit stitches; purl the purl stitches; purl the yarn over loops*

9              RS            p2*yo, k2-tog, yo, k3, yo, k2, ssk x2, (ssk, yo) x2, p2  *             

10           WS                *Knit the knit stitches; purl the purl stitches; purl the yarn over loops *

11           RS            p2*(yo, k2-tog) x2, k2, yo, k1, yo, (sl 1-k2-tog-psso) x2, ssk, yo, p2 *

12           WS               *Knit the knit stitches; purl the purl stitches; purl the yarn over loops       

13           RS            p2*(yo, k2-tog) x2, k2, yo, k3, yo, (sl 1-k3-tog-psso), yo, p2  *             

14           WS               *Knit the knit stitches; purl the purl stitches; purl the yarn over loops       

15           RS            p2*(yo, k2-tog) x2, k2, yo, ssk, k2, yo, k1, yo, ssk, yo, p2*             

16           WS               *Knit the knit stitches; purl the purl stitches; purl the yarn over loops *

Knitted Girl Lacy Bellflowers Shrug Knit till 12"

Finish with ruffle neck:

K for 2 rows

Kfb each st in next row

K next row

Kfb each st in next row

K next row

BO.

Knitted Girl Lacy Bellflowers Shrug Finish with Ruffle Neck

Finished size (unblocked) 19inch wide and 13 inch high (excluding ruffle neck)

Fold in half lengthwise and sow in mattress stitch the short edges for 2.5-3 inches to form the sleeves.

Knitted Girl Lacy Bellflowers Shrug Fold in half and sew to form sleeves

Fits 9-10 yrs old and beyond

Please feel free to share your finished project by adding your comment to this post. ❤ Happy Knitting! ❤

Knitted Baby Girl Ballerina Booties

Knitted Baby Girl Ballerina Booties

When pregnant with my fifth baby, I knitted quite a lot of baby booties, some more easy than others. This knitting pattern is for "girly" baby booties. For baby boy booties please check out my Stay On cute baby booties. I hope this tutorial will help any other newbie knitter with learning how to knit booties - there are millions and millions of free baby booties knitting patterns available online, but not all are easy to knit or clearly written. Surprisingly, for such a little item, baby booties can be quite complicated! These baby girl ballerina booties are inspired by a free Ravelry pattern, and are quite simple once you master the magic loop and Judy’s Magic Cast-on techniques, and there are lots of YouTube tutorials available. They will go perfect with this lovely baby girl layette, also a free knitting pattern.

Tags

Booties Baby Bottom-up In-the-round Seamless One-piece Unisex Newborn-Size Hospital Girl Written-Pattern


Needles
3.25mm long circular needles for magic loop
DK yarn in chosen colour

These cute stay on booties are knitted in the round from bottom sole up and have absolutely no seams to sew other than a couple of tails to weave in.

Terms:

K knit

P Purl

M1:  Make 1 (a method of increasing which is almost invisible, done by inserting tip of left needle underneath the little "bar" of yarn which runs between the needles, from front to back, forming a new stitch on the left needle, and then knitting into the *back* of that new stitch)

K2tog:  Knit two stitches together

P2tog:  Purl two stitches together

YO:  Yarn over (bring yarn from back of work to front of work -- makes a hole if "knitting" all stitches)

KFB: Knit into the front and back of each stitch

Sole:

CO 18 sts, using Judy’s Magic Cast-on on each needle (you want first purl bump row to be on outside/bottom when you begin round 1), the tail will be on the right hand side for the beginning of each round.

Round 1 Purl

Round 2 Knit

Rounds 3, 5, 7, 9, and 11: purl

Round 4: *K 1, M 1, K 16, M 1, K 1;* repeat on other needle

Round 6: *K 2, M 1, K 16, M 1, K 2; * repeat

Round 8: *K 3, M 1, K 16, M 1, K 3; * repeat

Round 10: *K 4, M 1, K 16, M 1, K 4; * repeat

Round 12: * K 5, M 1, K 16, M  1, K 5; * repeat

Now each needle has 28 sts for a total of 56 sts.

Sides:

Blanket Rib Stitch:

Repeat 2 rounds 4 times:

Round 1:       Knit into the front and back (KFB) of each stitch

Round 2:       * (K2tog, P2tog) rep from * till end of round

Change colour if want a contrasting colour band.

Instep Shaping / Top of the foot

Round 1 :  K to last 4 st on the needle , K2tog x 2, K2 Tog x 2, K to end

Round 2 :  P to last 4 st on the needle , P2tog x 2, P2 Tog x 2, P to end

Round 3 :  K to last 4 st on the needle , K2tog x 2, K2 Tog x 2, K to end

Round 4:  P to last 4 st on the needle , P2tog x 2, P2 Tog x 2, P to end

Round 5 :  K to last 4 st on the needle , K2tog x 2, K2 Tog x 2, K to end

Round 6:  P to last 4 st on the needle , P2tog x 2, P2 Tog x 2, P to end

16 st on each needle remaining.

Ankle Eyelets for Icord:

* K 1, YO, K2 tog *, repeat to last stitch on the needle, K1, repeat on the other needle.

Next Round : P

Top Ribbing  
Change colour back  to main if want different colour top rib

Continue pattern in round for 2 rows:

Round 1 : *K1, P1*, repeat to end.

Round 2 : P all st

BO in purl pattern.

Icord:

2st icord for 23inch or 24inch crochet chain, then slip stitch, to be treaded through the YO holes

Optional Front Decoration:

sow on the front a small bow:

Cast on 15 stitches.

Row 1: knit all stitches

Row 2: knit 2 stitches, purl 11 stitches, knit 2 stitches

Repeat rows 1 and 2 till you have 16 rows. (8 repeats)

Bind off loosely, weave in all ends.

Thread a length of yarn onto a darning needle. With the thumb and index finger of the hand not holding the needle, pinch the middle of the knitting so you get two even ridges. Sew the middle together with a few stitches and then wrap the remaining yarn around the middle of the bow. Sow onto the bootie. Fasten off yarn and weave in ends

Alternatively attach a crochet flower of your choice :)

Step back, admire your baby bootie, and then prepare to do it all over again for the second bootie.

Please feel free to share your finished project by adding your comment to this post. ❤ Happy Knitting! ❤

Knitted Baby Boy Converse Booties

Knitted Baby Boy Converse Booties

This is a free baby booties Ravelry pattern, and these knitted baby boy converse booties are so super cute, you will be asked forever where did you get them from - to which you can proudly say "Actually, I made these myself!".

As a newbie knitter, I found these to be a bit of a challenge, especially as I was learning to knit on magic loop at the same time, so I photographed each stage, in case I ever need to do these baby converse booties again - I am happy to share my photos and pattern notes with you but please note that this pattern is from Raverly, and these are my notes on how to knit this pattern on magic loop.

Converse Baby Booties on Magic Loop

Main Colour- Blue (MC) DK Yarn

Contrast Colour-White (CC) DK Yarn

3.25mm circular needles for magic loop (for newborn size 3.5” shoe sole lenght) or 4mm for 0-3m baby

Other Supplies: knitters’ yarn needle; row counter (optional)

Gauge: smaller size: 24sts over 4" on size 5

 larger size: 21sts over 4" on size 6

Terms

K Knit

P Purl

YO Yarn Over

SKP Slip 1 knitwise , Knit 1, Pass Slip Stitch over (sl 1, k1, psso)

Tbl – knit through the back loop

K2tog – knit two together

P2tog – purl two together

SSK – slip 1 knitwise, slip 1 knitwise, slip them back on left needle & knit 2 together through back loop

Sl1 – slip 1 purlwise

The booties are knitted bottom up, with the sole being knitted first, flat, and then sown at the end.

To Begin

With CC cast on (I used long tail cast on) 26 stitches and knit 1 row to start pattern on RS.

RS Row 1: k1, yo, k11, [yo, k1] twice, yo, k11, yo, k1. (31st)

WS Row 2, 4, 6, 8, 10: knit (when you reach the yo, knit in the back of the stitch - tbl).

RS Row 3: k2, yo, k11, yo, k2, yo, k3, yo, k11, yo, k2. (36st)

RS Row 5: k3, yo, k11, [yo, k4] twice, yo, k11, yo, k3. (41st)

RS Row 7: k4, yo, k11, yo, k5, yo, k6, yo, k11, yo, k4 (46st)

RS Row 9: k5, yo, k11, [yo, k7] twice, yo, k11, yo, k5. (51st)

Next

Row 11: knit across using CC

Divide stitches in half on magic loop (25 & 26 st)

Row 12: Join and knit around. The back of the shoe will be the beginning of the row/round (where the cast on tail is on your right)

Round 13: Join MC yarn & Knit using MC (or accent with black), leave it behind CC white yarn

Round 14-16: All knitting with CC (white) . Break CC white yarn

Round 17: Pick up MC blue yarn & Knit with MC  (blue)

Round 18: Knit 19 MC (blue), Break MC Blue Yarn, Knit 13 CC (white) - Joint white yarn but use Long 20” white tail to knit those 13st with, instead of working yarn from the skein , Join MC Blue yarn – leave long 20” tail - Knit 19 MC  (blue) with blue working yarn (not tail).

Shape Instep (toecap)

Using MC and CC.

In this section, you will be switching to working flat, short rows, shaping the front of the shoe.

Row 1: k19 MC Blue, k10 CC White (use main working yarn from white skein), SKP (sl 1, k1, psso) CC, turn.

Distribute the stitches on the magic loop to have all white stitches + 5 blues on either side & work those only in the flat short rows.

Continue white front pattern in CC White yarn:

Row 2: sl 1, p7, p2tog, turn.

Row 3: sl 1, k7, SKP, turn.

Row 4: sl 1, p7, p2tog, turn.

 (On Row 5-10  use your either the long blue tail from row 18 to “knit in MC” or the working yarn from main skein, whichever is closer to the worked stitches)

Row 5: sl 1, k7 CC, sl 1 CC, k1 MC, psso, turn  

Row 6: sl 1, p7 CC, p2tog MC, turn.

Row 7: sl 1, k7 CC, SKP MC, turn.

Row 8: sl 1, p1 MC, p5 CC, p1 MC, p2tog, turn.

Row 9: sl 1, k2 MC, k3 CC, k2 MC, SKP, turn.

Break CC white yarn, as you’d be using MC blue only now

Row 10: sl 1, p7, p2tog, turn.

Row 11: sl 1, k7, SKP, turn.

Row 12: sl 1, p7, p2tog, turn.

Row 13: sl 1, k7, SKP, turn.

Row 14: sl 1, p7, p2tog, turn.

Row 15: sl 1, k7, SKP, knit to the join (redistribute the stitches again on magic loop to push the stitches up to the join onto the needle.), continue in the round

Round 16: k13, K2tog, K to the end (to the join) (Total 35 stitches remaining).

Now you’ll start working both sides at the same time, joined at the back on the magic loop, but knitting in flat back and forth, 2 rows at a time for each side. (14st for each side + 7 st go onto scrap yarn for the tongue)

Side 1: Row 1: k11, yo, k2tog, k1 , place next 7 st onto scrap yarn, turn

Side 1: Row 2: Purl till join. Continue with Side 2.

Side 2: Row 1: Purl, turn

Side 2: Row 2: k1, ssk, yo, k11, turn & Continue with Side 1

Side 1: Row 3: k11, k2tog, k1, turn

Side 1: Row 4: Purl till join. Continue with Side 2.

Side 2: Row 3: Purl, turn

Side 2: Row 4: k1, ssk, k11. turn & Continue with Side 1

Side 1: Row 5: k10, yo, k2tog, k1, turn

Side 1: Row 6: Purl till join. Continue with Side 2.

Side 2: Row 5: Purl, turn

Side 2: Row 6: k1, ssk, yo, k10, Turn & Continue with Side 1.

Side 1: Row 7: k10, k2tog, k1, turn

Side 1: Row 8: Purl till join. Continue with Side 2.

Side 2: Row 7: Purl, turn

Side 2: Row 8: k1, ssk, k10 Turn & Continue with Side 1.

Side 1: Row 9: k9, yo, k2tog, k1, turn

Side 1: Row 10: Purl till join. Continue with Side 2.

Side 2: Row 9: Purl, turn

Side 2: Row 10: k1, ssk, yo, k9 Turn & Continue with Side 1.

Side 1: Row 11: k9, k2tog, k1, turn

Side 1: Row 12: knit. Continue with Side 2.

Side 2: Row 11: Knit, turn

Side 2: Row 12: k1, ssk, k9 Turn & Continue with Side 1.

Side 1: Row 13: knit, Turn

Side 1: Row 14: knit,  continue with Side 2

Side 2: Row 13: Knit,

Side 2: Bind Off in K all remaining st till the end of Side 1

Tongue:

Place 7 Stitches from the scrap yarn onto the needle. Rejoin MC yarn.

WS Row 1 : p across

RS Rows 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12: k across

WS Rows 3, 5, 7, 9, 11, 13: k1, p5, k1

RS Row 14: ssk, k3, k2tog

WS Row: 15: purl

Bind Off in K.

Laces:

Using a CC white colour or any that you wish:

CO 3 stitches.

I-Cord for 21 inches

-OR-

crochet chain for 21 inches – will look thinner than icord & faster to make

Finishing:

Weave in ends.

Sew bottom seam of booties’ sole in mattress stitch.

Optional: Make circle with star (can use star shaped button - I did not bother) and sew to left side of bootie.

Lace up the Converse through YO holes.

Take a step back and take a minute to admire your work, before beginning to knit the second bootie…

Update: whilst these baby booties are super cute, they're also quite small and only lasted for a few weeks. After that, I've moved  my baby onto my cute stay on booties. 

Knitted Baby Girl Layette Free Knitting Pattern

Knitted Baby Girl Layette Free Knitting Pattern

When pregnant with my fifth baby, I knitted this lovely baby girl layette, in case the baby was a girl (it wasn't, so this cute baby girl cardigan is now an adorable baby dolly outfit, so the time knitting it was not all lost).

Note that the pictured baby bonnet is knitted from another free Ravelry pattern.
I am happy to share my pattern notes for this baby girl layette cardigan for free, providing that you follow this copyright notice:

Copyright Notice
Feel free to share a link to this pattern by linking to my blog and giving copyright credit to © CraftsAdore, but do not copy the pattern and claim as your own. The pattern is as-is, and I cannot provide any individual support on it. This pattern may not be used to produce items for commercial purposes - you may knit from this pattern for own personal use only or for charity. Please feel free to share your finished project by adding your comment to this post. ❤ Happy Knitting! ❤

Knitted Baby Girl Layette Free Knitting Pattern

Key:

K - Knit Stitch

P - Purl Stitch

K2tog – knit two together

P2tog – purl two together

YO – yarn over between two K stitches
Bring the yarn forward between the two needles, over the top of the right needle, and

back into position to knit the next stitch

YON - Yarn Over Needle - This is a YO done after a purl and before a knit.

You're starting with the yarn in front, and need it in back, so bring it over the

needle into position to knit the next stitch

YFRN - Yarn Forward Round Needle - This is a YO done after a knit and before a

purl. Your yarn is in the back, so bring it forward to the front, then over the

needle and around to the front again so it is in position to purl the next stitch

YRN: Yarn Round Needle - This is a YO done between two purl stitches. You

should already have the yarn in front of the work; bring the yarn over the top

of the needle and around to the front again into position to purl the next

stitch.

PSSO – pass the slipped stitch over

Sl 1 – slip one st knitwise unless otherwise stated

SSK – slip slip (knitwise) knit through the back loop

Level : Advanced Beginner

Tags : Newborn, Newborn-size, Baby, Top-Down, Raglan, Cardigan, Sweater, Buttoned, Seamless, Hospital, Home Coming, Layette

Yarn: DK or Worsed Yarn,

Cast On:

Using 3.25mm needles,

CO 68 st, using long tail method

Collar: (in blanket stitch)

Rim 1 & Rim 2 as per top panel pattern

Row 1 WS:              Sl1 purlwise, Knit (this will be the wrong side of your work) all st

Row 2 RS:               Sl1 purlwise, Knit into the front and back (KFB) of each stitch till last st, K1

Row 3 WS:              Sl1 purlwise, * (K2tog, P2tog) rep from * till last 13 st, (P2tog, K2tog) x6, K1

Row 4 RS:               Sl1 purlwise, Knit into the front and back (KFB) of each stitch till last st, K1

Row 5 WS:              Sl1 purlwise, * (K2tog, P2tog) rep from * till last 13 st, (P2tog, K2tog) x6, K1

Row 6 RS:               Sl1 purlwise, Knit into the front and back (KFB) of each stitch till last st, K1

Row 7 WS:              Sl1 purlwise, (K2tog, P2tog) x6, K2tog, *p2tog, k2tog; rep from * till last 13 st, (P2tog, K2tog) x6, K1

Switch to 4mm needles

Set up 4 “increment” stitch markers (IM) and 4 “pattern markers” (PM) as follows:

7st (rim PM) - 10st (front PM) – 7st (sleeve IM) – 20 st (back IM) – 7st (sleeve IM) – 10st (front PM) – 7st (rim PM),

 and 2 different colour “pattern” markers where front lace pattern finishes & starts

Yoke (with increments done on RS rows only):

If there is not enough st to do full pattern repeats on sleeves, just P those st or try to fit a partial pattern.

Top Panel (first 24 rows, sand panel)

Row 1 (RS):

Rim 1:     Sl1 purlwise, (KFB) x6

Front 1:   *[K1, P1] repeat to 1 st before next IM, KFB, slip IM, KFB

Sleeve:    P all st to 1 st before next IM, KFB, slip IM, KFB

Back:       *[K1, P1] repeat to 1 st before next IM, KFB, slip IM, KFB

Sleeve:    P all st to 1 st before next IM, KFB, slip IM, KFB

Front 2:   *[K1, P1] repeat to 1 st before next IM, KFB, slip IM, KFB

Rim 2:     (KFB) x6, K1

Row 2 (WS):

Rim 1:     Sl1 purlwise, (K2tog, P2tog) x6

Front 1:   K all st to next IM, slip IM.

Sleeve:    K1, *(K1, P1, K1) into the next stitch, P3tog; rep from * to next IM, slip IM

Back:       K all st, slip IM

Sleeve:    K1, *(K1, P1, K1) into the next stitch, P3tog; rep from * to PM

Front 2:   K all st to next IM, slip IM.

Rim 2:     (P2tog, K2tog) x6, K1

Row 3 (RS):

Rim 1:     Sl1 purlwise, (KFB) x6

Front 1:  *[P1, K1] repeat to 1 st before next IM, KFB, slip IM, KFB

Sleeve:    P all st to 1 st before next IM, KFB, slip IM, KFB

Back:       K1, *[P1, K1] repeat to 1 st before next IM, KFB, slip IM, KFB

Sleeve:    P all st to 1 st before next IM, KFB, slip IM, KFB

Front 2:  K1, *[P1, K1] repeat to 1 st before next IM, KFB, slip IM, KFB

Rim 2:     (KFB) x6, K1

Row 4 (WS):

Rim 1:     Sl1 purlwise, (K2tog, P2tog) x6

Front 1:   K all st to next IM, slip IM

Sleeve:    K1, *P3tog, (K1, P1, K1) into the next stitch; rep from * to next IM, slip IM

Back:       K all st, slip IM

Sleeve:    K1, *P3tog, (K1, P1, K1) into the next stitch; rep from * to PM

Front 2:   K all st to next IM, slip IM

Rim 2:     (P2tog, K2tog) x6, K1

Repeat 1-4 Sand pattern for 24 rows as follows:

RS  Row 1 pattern:   1, 5, (9), 13, 17, (21)

WS Row 2 pattern:  2, 6, 10, 14, 18, 22,

RS  Row 3 pattern:   3, 7, 11, 15, 19, 23  Girl Button Rows: (9), (21), (33) i.e. every 12 rows

(see “Single Button Row” instructions) on Rim 2

WS Row 4 pattern:  4, 8, 12, 16, 20, 24

Middle Panel (Bramble panel from Row 25 to 32)

From Row 25 (RS) to 32, the pattern for front will change into Bramble stitch. Continue sleeves in Bramble stitch:

Row 1 (RS):

Rim 1:     Sl1 purlwise, (KFB) x6

Front:      P all st to 1 st before next IM, KFB, slip IM, KFB

Sleeve:    P all st to 1 st before next IM, KFB, slip IM, KFB

Back:       *[K1, P1] repeat to 1 st before next IM, KFB, slip IM, KFB

Sleeve:    P all st to 1 st before next IM, KFB, slip IM, KFB

Front 2:   P all st to 1 st before next IM, KFB, slip IM, KFB

Rim 2:     (KFB) x6, K1

Row 2 (WS):

Rim 1:     Sl1 purlwise, (K2tog, P2tog) x6

Front 1:   *(K1, P1, K1) into the next stitch, P3tog; rep from * to next IM, slip IM

Sleeve:    K1, *(K1, P1, K1) into the next stitch, P3tog; rep from * to next IM, slip IM

Back:       K all st, slip IM

Sleeve:    K1, *(K1, P1, K1) into the next stitch, P3tog; rep from * to PM

Front 2:   K1, *(K1, P1, K1) into the next stitch, P3tog; rep from * to PM

Rim 2:     (P2tog, K2tog) x6, K1

Row 3 (RS):

Rim 1:     Sl1 purlwise, (KFB) x6

Front 1:  P all st to 1 st before next IM, KFB, slip IM, KFB

Sleeve:    P all st to 1 st before next IM, KFB, slip IM, KFB

Back:       K1, *[P1, K1] repeat to 1 st before next IM, KFB, slip IM, KFB

Sleeve:    P all st to 1 st before next IM, KFB, slip IM, KFB

Front 2:  P all st to 1 st before next IM, KFB, slip IM, KFB

Rim 2:     (KFB) x6, K1

Row 4 (WS):

Rim 1:     Sl1 purlwise, (K2tog, P2tog) x6

Front 1:   *P3tog, (K1, P1, K1) into the next stitch; rep from * to next IM, slip IM

Sleeve:    K1, *P3tog, (K1, P1, K1) into the next stitch; rep from * to next IM, slip IM

Back:       K all st, slip IM

Sleeve:    K1, *P3tog, (K1, P1, K1) into the next stitch; rep from * to PM

Front 2:   K1, *P3tog, (K1, P1, K1) into the next stitch; rep from * to PM

Rim 2:     (P2tog, K2tog) x6, K1

Repeat 1-4 row Bramble Panel pattern twice, till row 32 as follows:

RS  Row 1 pattern:   25, 29

WS Row 2 pattern:  26, 30

RS  Row 3 pattern:   27, 31

WS Row 4 pattern:  28, 32

Main Body:

(continue body in patterns till 10 inch from collar)

Divide work for fronts & back and sleeves Row 33 (RS):

30 st front 1 & 2

52 back

39 sleeve 1 & 2

“Body Increment Row”:

Increase evenly front stitches (every 3 st or so) to end up with 36st + 1 K from sleeve + cast on 5 st (so total 41 st on front)

Row 1 RS:

*K and increase evenly by KFB to end up with 36st* to Sleeve marker

K1, CO 4st using cable cast on, slip Sleeve rest of stitches on spare yarn,

*[P1, K1] * to next Sleeve marker

K1, CO 4st using cable cast on, slip Sleeve stitches on spare yarn, *K and increase evenly by KFB to end up with 36st * till Rim 2 (DON’T forget the button hole!). Remove all IMs but keep 2 PMs for front markers.

Start pattern from row 2 WS

Diamond Front Panel Pattern

Beginning & End Rims: as per top panel pattern

1              RS            Rim 1:     Sl1 purlwise, (KFB) x6                          Rim 2:     (KFB) x6, K1

2              WS          Rim 1:     Sl1 purlwise, (K2tog, P2tog) x6              Rim 2:     (P2tog, K2tog) x6, K1

Front 1 & 2: Multiple of 6 st +5 Diamond Pattern over 6 rows, repeat 2 times:

1              RS            k5 *p1, k5; rep from * to PM

2              WS          k1 *p3, k3; rep from * to 4 st before PM, P3, K1

3              RS            p2 *k1, p5; rep from * to 3 st before PM, K1, P2

4              WS          p2 *k1, p5; rep from * to 4 st before PM, K1, P2

5              RS            k1 *p3, k3; rep from * to 4 st before PM, P3, K1

6              WS          k5 *p1, k5; rep from * to PM

Back pattern:

1              RS            *[P1, K1] repeat to PM, slip PM

2              WS          K all st, slip PM

3              RS            *[K1, P1] repeat to PM, slip PM

4              WS          K all st, slip PM

Tip: keep track of RS back pattern by checking st 1 row below last one– you need to k over p, and p over k

Lace Bead Ribbing Panel: multiple of 7st, 5 repeats

Increase st by 1 to 42st on front row (MK1 at the end of front row 1 and beginning of front 2), and switch to bead lace pattern, 6 repeats on each front.

1              RS            K1, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, sl 1, k1, psso, *k2, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, sl 1, k1, psso; rep from
                                 * to last st, k1.

2              WS          P2tog tbl, yrn, p3, yrn, p2tog; rep from * to end.

3              RS            K1, yo, sl 1, k1, psso, k1, k2tog, yo, *k2, yo, sl 1, k1, psso, k1, k2tog, yo; rep from
                                * to last st, k1.

4              WS          P2, yrn, p3tog, yrn, *p4, yrn, p3tog, yrn; rep from * to last 2 sts, p2.

Chevron Panel: 41 st 6st +5, 3 repeats

Decrease st by 1 to 41 st by K2Tog at beginning of front 1 & 2.

1              RS            K5, *p1, k5; rep from * to end.

2              WS          K1, *p3, k3; rep from * to last 4 stitches, p3, k1.

3              RS            P2, *k1, p2; rep from * to end.

4              WS          P1, *k3, p3; rep from * to last 4 stitches, k3, p1.

5              RS            K2, *p1, k5; rep from * to last 3 stitches, p1, k2.

6              WS          Purl all stitches.

Finish in ruffle:

K for 1 row

Kfb each st in next row

K next row

BO on RS in pattern

Single Row Button:

Step 1: Once you’ve reached to point in your knitting where you want to place the button (KFBx2), bring the working yarn forward.

Step 2: Slip the next stitch from your main needle purl wise.

Step 3: Bring the working yarn back.

Step 4: Slip the next stitch from your main needle purl wise again.

Step 5: Pass the second stitch on your working needle over the first stitch.

Repeat steps 4 and 5 for as many stitches as is needed to fit your button (x2). Slip last st back on main needle

Step 6: Turn your work over.

Note: You may want to pull very tight on your working yarn before the next step and continue pulling tight for the first stitch. This will prevent or limit holes next to the buttonhole.

Step 7: Using the cable cast on, add the same number of stitches as was bound off to your main needle + 1. (6st)

Step 8: Turn your work over again.

Step 9: Slip the next stitch from you main needle purl wise.

Step 10: Pass 2 additional stitches from you cast on over the first stitch on your working needle.

Step 11: Pass the first stitch on your working needle back to the main needle.

Step 12: Work the next stitch in pattern and continue knitting as normal. (Continue as KFB x 2, K1 to complete the row pattern)

Sleeves:

Transfer stitches from spare yarn, join in round, picking up & knitting into extra 10 st from under arm.

For long sleeve cardigan, continue in bramble pattern in the round till 5” under arm & finish in 7 rows of basket ribbing.

For short sleeves:

Finish in ruffle:

K for 1 row

Kfb each st in next row

K next row

BO on RS in pattern

Why not try some ballerina booties to go with it? My baby girl ballerina booties free knitting pattern is available here.

Please feel free to share your finished project by adding your comment to this post. ❤ Happy Knitting! ❤